Imperia: Bike, Hiking Boots, and Sea View Included
In the mornings, golden light lies on the hills of Moltedo. From the olive groves come the calls of jays, the cawing of magpies, the cooing of doves. A fine mist hangs over the valley, in which the Torrente Prino winds like a silvery ribbon.
Our old tower stands above the village, among gnarled olive trees. The walls bear traces of many years. From the terrace, the view stretches over Val Prino to the sea at Porto Maurizio.
Moltedo is located at the confluence of the Prino and Rio dei Boschi. The village clings to the hillside, surrounded by terraces full of olives. Among the stone houses, oleander blooms in vibrant pink, white, and red in summer.
In autumn, we witness the olive harvest. Men and women spread nets, shake the branches, and collect the fruits. Tractors drive the narrow roads down to the mills.
Cycling on the Coast
Imperia is located on the Ligurian coast, between Genoa to the east and Sanremo to the west. This section is known as the Riviera dei Fiori – a coast where oleander, bougainvillea, and lemon trees bloom almost all year round. Small fishing villages, marinas, and promenades line the beaches. Behind the coastline, the hills rise immediately, lined with olive groves and colorful gardens. This location makes Imperia an ideal starting point for tours along the coast to Sanremo or into the mountainous hinterland of the Ligurian Alps.
In Imperia, the Pista Ciclabile begins. This cycle path follows an old railway line, stretching for about 30 kilometers to Ospedaletti, right by the sea. It passes through towns like San Lorenzo al Mare, Santo Stefano al Mare, and Arma di Taggia. Sections run through old railway tunnels, then the view opens up wide over the water. Oleander hedges line the path, their scent mingling with the salty air.
The route is constantly being optimized and expanded. Road cyclists use it for long coastal rides. Mountain bikers branch off into the hinterland, where old trails lead from medieval village to medieval village. Sometimes the path runs narrowly along the hillside, sometimes on wide gravel paths through olive groves.
From Imperia, you can also cycle to Sanremo. This route also follows the old railway line, past beaches, fishing boats, and promenades with palm trees. Along the way, bars and restaurants invite you to take a break.
Tours into the Hinterland
The hinterland of Imperia demands strong legs and good stamina. Roads climb in long curves between olive groves and chestnut forests. Monte Faudo and Monte Grammondo entice with tough ascents and long descents. Around Badalucco, mountain bike trails of varying difficulty lead through valleys, over ridges, and past old stone walls.
Directly from Imperia, you can reach coastal paths with views of bays and rocky beaches. In the hinterland, routes like the ascent to Monte Faudo (1,149 m) offer panoramic views of the sea and the Maritime Alps, or the connection between the mountain villages of Valloria, Prelà, and Dolcedo, passing olive groves and old stone bridges. For those who want to go higher, multi-day treks can be undertaken on the high trails of the Ligurian Alps, stopping at rifugi (mountain huts) along the way. Spring and autumn are ideal – wild flowers bloom then, and the distant views often extend as far as Corsica.
Hiking in the Ligurian Alps
Behind the hills, the gate to the Ligurian Alps opens. Here, sea and mountains meet directly. High trails lead over ridges with views of both sides – the glittering Mediterranean to the south, the snow-capped peaks of the Maritime Alps to the north.
From our tower, we can reach old mule tracks that wind into the mountains. They lead to mountain villages like Vasia or Valloria, where painted doors tell stories. Further up, the terrain becomes rougher: stony paths, juniper bushes, wide pastures. In spring, gentians and cyclamen bloom here.
The wildlife is diverse. Buzzards circle overhead, deer emerge from the forest at dusk, wild boars root under the olive trees. Lizards bask on the walls. At night, fireflies glow, and frogs call from the streams.
On hot days, the Laghetti Lecchiore beckon. Water plunges over rocks into clear pools. A jump in takes the heat from your body. Dragonflies hover over the surface.
Sea on Your Doorstep
Down in Imperia, the sea begins directly behind the beach promenades. From here, boats depart for whale watching. Fin whales, sperm whales, and dolphins swim through the Ligurian Sea off the coast. On some days, sea turtles lay their eggs between the sun loungers of the lidos. And sometimes, right by the marina, a dark fin cuts through the water – a silent, rare moment before it disappears again.
Dolcedo in the Evening
Just a few kilometers down into the valley lies Dolcedo. A day often ends here in the piazza. Pizza, wine, voices, laughter. When the plates are empty, a ball rolls across the cobblestones. Children and adults play together, while older villagers sit on the side in the evening sun and watch. Above the rooftops, the sky glows, and the light reflects in the water of the Prino before disappearing into the darkness.
We only came for a while. Now we are staying. Our tower stands firm in the wind. The valley opens anew every day. Nature holds us here.
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